travlphile
11Sep/091

No Hesitation

If there’s one thing I’ve been fascinated by during this second excursion to Europe, it’s the people.  Perhaps one the first things you think about when considering Europe as a destination is the blend of cultures.  Culture here comes in many forms, but the pervading force is language.  For some it may even scare them away from the idea altogether.  I admit that it almost did when I first considered traveling here some 3 years ago, and yes it is an obstacle.  It is a facet of Europe that can scare you, make things difficult for you, and even ruin the experience entirely.  But it’s for exactly all of those reasons you should journey somewhere foreign to you at least once.

2 years ago I landed in Zurich, got off the plane and immediately had a sense of abandonment, as though I was left all alone to fend for myself.  I had no working cell phone at the time, I had no computer with me; the only thing I had was a translation book.  But I did so for two weeks.  Knowing almost nothing of any foreign language I had to figure out how to do even the simplest of things… buy a train ticket, pay for a drink, even find and sometimes pay for a toilet.  I ended up befriending people I had just met, and otherwise just experimenting in my daily tasks.  But I went home a stronger person for it, some would say even more independent than I was before, but definitely different.  The sense of gained strength is what helped me commit to myself that I would do this again.

I overcame the culture shock much more quickly this time, rather than ten days, it took me one.  But by doing so I started to see the world here more for what it is.  I started to see the people as they were in their daily lives, not as a barrier to what I wanted but a gateway.  Because I engaged them, I started to learn about people not only from Europe, but from around the world.  On this visit I’ve learned something about Australians, New Zealanders, English, French, Swedish, Swiss, Oriental and more.  For example, did you know that in Australia you have to get a permit just to put a non-stock tire on your vehicle?  Or that in New Zealand that almost none of their roads are straight?  Or that almost all Germans speak English?  I even had a political conversation with both a Swedish couple and a well off Englishmen and his girlfriend.  Something to note, but almost everyone looks to the United States for guidance, whether they like our leaders or not… this is something to be proud of.

As my vacation continued, I not only spoke with people more, I watched them more.  In France you can see and hear how pampered the women are.  In Nice I don’t think I saw one woman that wasn’t glamorous.  I even heard one English lady say how exciting it was to be in a place where a woman can really be a woman (France takes pride in this)… she was enjoying that a lot.  In Switzerland I saw men that were so proud of their oh-so-beautiful cars, and older people enjoying a day at the park.  During one of the cool mornings I saw an older woman playing fetch with her dog in Lake Lucerne.  Not a few minutes later I saw an oriental woman taking photos of the hard working pup as he carried his toy in from the lake.  In Lugano I saw some female hikers wearing what looked like glamorous mini-skirts.  One of my favorite things about Luzern is how people carry their instruments around, set up camp on the corner and begin to play.  I’ve seen a quartet playing beautifully, and woman playing classics on a violin and just yesterday a man playing a full sized harp alongside one of the tiny streets.  You can’t imagine the feeling you get when you come across this, and I can tell you it’s just not the same as your Ipod.

A trip like this must be done by everyone.  Have no agenda other than where you’re going to stay, just talk to people when you get there.  They will know best I assure you.  Sometimes they may be rude, or they may be kind, but Add Audiobeing patient and working with that is how you survive.  Taking on a challenge like this will not only scare you, it will change you, and change you for the better.  You’ll probably go home with a new wrinkle or two, but you’ll also go home with more confidence and insight into the workings of the world.  It’s precisely those things that make a trip like this worth it and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, mind you that next time I hope Emily will be at my side...

8Sep/093

Gambria

Gambria is a town I expect to see in Switzerland.  It is an ancient town, I'm guessing from medieval times, but there is surprisingly little information on it.  Gambria is a small town, positioned right on the side of a steep hill, making it look as though the town itself disappears beneath the lake.

On this day I chose to walk to Gambria.  From the hostel, which is very near the train station I would say it took 2 hours to get there.  Go down to the lake shore and follow it to the east.  You can also get down to Viale Carlo Cattaneo and follow the sidewalk east.  This road changes names a few times along  the way, but often you will find  helpful signs at bus stops and other places to get your bearing if you don't have a map.  I followed the road to a footpath along the edge of Lake Lugano.

The footpath itself is well maintained and passes by many old buildings along the way, as well as several very small hotels and residences overlooking the lake.  Locals even appear to favor it as a running path, I saw several runners along the way. Imagine walking out your front door to this.

Gandria Walk

Gambria Walk

Eventually though it opens up to what is obviously Gambria.  Very steep steps that at first seem they will walk right into the lake.  Getting anywhere in town means that you have stairs to climb, or descend.  Much of exterior of the town has been left untouched, but I could see by construction, as well as the modern doors and interiors that it has been reclaimed for living in the present.  This is a talent that the Swiss have, making old look old, but making old new.  Exterior lights look to be 200 years old, but you can clearly see they have CFL lightbulbs installed.

Gambria

Gambria

Occasionally you catch a glimpse of a more traditional private residence through an iron gate, or perhaps a crack.  Here is a place that looks untouched for years, almost as if its an oil painting.

Gambria Home

Gambria Home

As I continued around the village, I came across a 2 shops and one restaurant.  Wonderfully small and quaint, just enough to fit the town, and not overdone like the medieval town Eze in France.  Nearing the end of my exploration I noticed one other home, or at least it's 'porch'.  How would you like to wake up each day and have your morning tea or coffee here?

Morning Coffee

Morning Coffee

Today's excursion from Lugano wasn't as long as yesterdays, only half a day, but it helped me to realize that there are places like this out there.  It just takes a little more looking to find them.  If ever you do end up in Lugano, I recommend taking even a short stroll around this rustic little place.

The rest of my day was spent catching up with myself.  I was basically done walking and didnt want to move in any capacity.  So I entertained myself by washing my clothes, making some lunch, and taking the time to write down my experiences.  I find that every time I do it, the adventure just becomes more real because I get to share it with all of you.

Tomorrow I go to Luzern, a place I really want to see.  Its been highly touted by everyone I've mentioned it to here.

8Sep/090

These legs are made for walkin…

Lugano is a wonderful place.  A little bigger than I originally thought, but it has a culture all it's own.

When I arrived 2 nights ago, I had to first orient myself.  I couldn't tell up from down or north from south.  So I wandered the nearby neighborhood for about 30 minutes trying to find the Montarina hostel.  Luck would have it that I ran into an English girl walking with her young sister it looked like.  She walked me up a hill and to the hostel.  I had walked right by it.

Lugano is like a tossed salad of cultures.  You have a mix of German and Italian speaking residents.  Its actually quite funny, as I think you can pick the 2 out distinctly in a crowd.  Take a crosswalk for example.  The Germans are much more strict in their approach to the situation.  You look both ways and you see no cars, but you still cant cross until the little green man lights up.  The Italians however pay no attention, to cars or lights, because they just cross, expecting the cars to stop.  They must get this from Milano.

Immediately after crossing the border into Switzerland you see a difference.  Everything is cleaner... even the buses!  In Italy I think they forgot to pay the maid, because everything looks older and is not maintained very well.  I wouldn't stereotype Italians too badly, but they definitely put a different emphasis on the word 'clean' than the Swiss.

When you walk downtown in the shopping district, everything is 'upper class' in appearance.  Its not exactly touristy, but it is 'well to do'.  Window shopping will turn up the likes of things you expect to see in the upper class.  People here are just well dressed and very kind, so far as I have seen.

Yesterday I awoke and met some new hostel friends.  While I was searching for breakfast I bumped into them, an English lady and American that reminds me exactly of my buddy Aaron, and another American that is moving to Switzerland... her parents were Swiss and has chosen to use that for citizenship.  We walked down the lake shore, around the city center, and even rented a small motorboat.  Yes, I have even cruised a pathetic little 4 man motor boat on Lake Lugano.  Another experience I won't soon forget.

Gated View of Lake Lugano

Gated View of Lake Lugano

As we walked through the park I noticed this little dandy...  what exactly to you think the Swiss mean by this?  The picture doesn't exactly depict something most would do, do you think?

Keep Off!

Keep Off!

After finishing the morning wandering, we all went back to the hostel where we settled down to relax for just a bit.  My new friends were driving a car and needed to head out around 2.  So we exchanged email addresses, wished each other well and went our separate ways.

I debated a bit, but in the end decided to take another room mate's advice and hike up the San Salvatore mountain, or hill.  Its the one in the background in the picture above.  So I headed out about 3 in the direction of Paradiso road, I'm told that's where to go to find the trail.  Once I arrived I looked at it and had to wonder if the Swiss just don't believe in not-so-steep trails, or if the just like a challenge.  This trail was steep!

San Salvatore Trail

San Salvatore Trail

I kid you not, this is an exact representation of the trail, and only part of a one and a half hour hike.  This was about one third of the way up and it follows the funicular for about 200 meters.

The one good thing going for me is being born and raised in Colorado, the altitude has prepped me.  All signs suggested the hike was 2.5 hours long, and I made it in about 1.25.  Either I am in better shape than I think, or I'm a natural... I think the previous though.  lol

Heres a view from the peak.

San Salvatore View

San Salvatore View

Despite the temporary burst of energy I used to climb the hill, I was beat once I hit the top.  Thank god for the funicular station.  It was something that I initially didn't want to admit to using, but found very comforting once I saw it.  A funicular is like a slow train up a mountain, at very steep angles.  So I dug through my bag looking for any francs I could find, and luckily pulled out my last twenty.  It was 16 franc to ride down, expensive if you ask me, but worth it considering the pain I think it saved me.  I was at the bottom in about 5 minutes.

On the ride down I met an old couple (probably in their 80s), the woman couldn't speak English, but the man could speak a little, so he kindly translated for his wife.  By how he treated her and they interacted, they were still fully enthralled with each other, exactly how I want to be when I'm that age.

Heres a view from the top on the funicular.

San Salvatore Funicular

San Salvatore Funicular

That pretty much completed my busy day.  Afterwords I walked back to the hostel, showered and had in depth conversations with a New Zealander (who made me some yummy 'backpacker' spaghetti), an Australian (there are things about Australia I bet you never knew!), his girlfriend (whom he was visiting while she studied abroad) and Emily :) .

The next day (today!) I walked all the way to Gandria and back.  A quaint and ancient lakeside town that turned out very photogenic.

8Sep/091

Milano Candy

There are some experiences in travel that make you scared, there are some that make you reflect, and there are some that make you smile.  My experiences during my day of travel to Lugano Switzerland from Nice France wrap all three into one yummy travel bite.

My day started off well, up bright and early, ready to go.  Unfortunately I woke the family of 3 that joined me in the St Exupery Hostel my final night, but I considered it payback for waking me at 1am when they arrived.  Haha... they seemed very kind actually.  From there I grabbed a free ride back to the tram and made my way to the train station.  On the tram I started chatting with a man that was also leaving town.  I learned that he had been traveling for about a year at this point, was from Toronto, and apparently had the option through his job to take leave for the entire time.  As we continued to talk I learned of his travels to the far east and more near west, all of which intrigued me.  I would love to travel to parts of the far east, perhaps south of China more than China herself though.   Not more than an hour later I was on a train bound for Milano.

On this train a very kind older couple from Sweden joined me in the six person seating area, and as it turned out spoke english relatively well.  She enjoyed talking to me, I think because she was able to practice her english.  The man spoke little, but was very happy to show me his cool gizmos and gadgets.  He was especially proud of he cell phone and video recorder... he recorded many minutes of the scenic view as it flashed by.  The term 'scenic' is probably an understatement, because we followed the mediterranean coast for about one and a half hours.  Stunning beaches and brilliant blue ocean.  Something that really surprised me was how many tunnels the train went through, and they were long, sometimes several minutes long.  Terrain out here isnt very flat, if you ever thought it was.

After many stops in a particularly slow train 2:50 pm slowly started to grow near, and it was beginning to become more apparent that my stop in Milano may become a little longer than originally anticipated.  It kind of felt like the drivers just didnt care about a schedule, because every stop they made seemed to take just a little longer.  I knew Milano was getting close by the time 2:50 pm arrived, but then again we weren't there yet.  Another 5 minutes went by, the train stopped this time, aye.  About 3 it began to move again.  I was growing impatient, and a little nervous that I would be spending an evening in Milano.  I didn't recall seeing any other trains to Lugano after the 3:10 pm one.  Everything seems to be like clockwork here and I didnt know how I would get out of a mess like the one I feared was going to happen.  All I know is that each of the two times Ive been in Milan there have been problems.

We finally pulled up at the platform about 3:04 pm.  Shit.  I fought my way out the train, and started booking it to the  sign telling me where I need to go for my connection.  It was difficult though, because Milano is a mad-house of people.  Always getting in front of you and always slowing you down.  "Platform 7" for Lugano I read... sweet... its only on the other side of this godforsaken mess of a train station.  Off I went glancing at my watch noting the 3:07 time.  About 3:09 I reached the platform and took a right, along with at least 3 others racing to the door to jump on.  The door was shut, so one of us pressed the green 'open' button, but it didn't open!  We ran to the next car, and then the next and none of them opened.  By this time I noticed and even more frantic woman next to me cursing in German.  She dropped her large plastic box with wheels and ran all-out to the end of the train, where the driver resides.  From a distance I saw her frantically waving her hands having a 'discussion' with the driver.  Before I knew it, she was racing back in my direction yelling something in German or Italian I think.  I started running with her, managed to get her speaking english, and realized the unbelievable.  We were supposed to get aboard on the other side of the train.  My god.  About 5 seconds later the train lurched, we stopped running and started to curse a bit, and then laugh.  I may have cried for a just a moment when I realized I had no idea what to do.

That's when I realized the misfortune of the situation, as well as the luck of it.  The woman was clearly 'experienced' in the ways of Milano, she spoke english, and as it turns out Italian and German as well.  So, after we stopped laughing, we started in the direction of the customer service desk.  She almost immediately took out a cigarette to deal with the sitation, and I just wiped my brow.  Imagine running full force with 25 lb backpack on.

As I made my way to the front of the line, I learned that she was a citizen of Switzerland, a singer and songwriter (I wish I could, but I can't remember her name) and was soon traveling to the states, Oregon, to get of all things get her driver's license.  She wanted to be unique and buy a hearst so that she could drive south along the coast.  lol  She also explained to me that she had missed probably 8 trains in Milano, it was a big joke to her.  Let me tell you, it helped soo much being able to gripe about the stuation to someone, and to laugh about it.  Because of that I knew things were going to be just fine by the time I was next up.  My new and temporary friend helped me speak to the lady at the desk and arrange for another ride.  The next train to Lugano was about 30 minutes away.  We left the service desk, I said my thank yous and goodbyes and I was off to Lugano by train.

Thinking about all of this on the quiet train ride north all I could do was smile.  Its like a big piece of memory candy if you ask me, and a lesson learned.   Never trust a train to Milano.

6Sep/091

Lugano at last

I made it!  Im back in Switzerland.  It was a trip full of stories to tell, including the not so lucky...  I promise to tell more but Im tire now... and I assure it will make you smile, just a bit.  I hope find myself a bit of time and a book now, just to relax and take in the amazing views.  Hotel and Hostel Montarina is a nice place, a place with views and one that has a pool, kitchen and much more.  Tomorrow I set my sights on Lake Lugano, or getting to it at least, maybe a long walk up a hill or  to one of the historic lake side villages.  Ill be sure to write!

6Sep/090

Monaco and Eze – Photos

Hey all, as promised here are some pictures from my journey to Monoco and Exe on September 5th...

Eze

Eze Photo 1

Eze Photo 1

Eze Photo 2

Eze Photo 2

Cars

Princes Palace Ferrari

Princes Palace Ferrari

Beautiful Cars

Beautiful Cars

Monaco

The Prince's Palace

The Prince's Palace

A View of Monaco

A View of Monaco

5Sep/090

Monaco and Eze

It has a been a busy day here in Nice.  I was fortunate enough to get a look at the country of Monoco, as well as an ancient village turned modern, Eze.

Lets start with Eze if we can, because it was something a journey by bus.  Being forced to sleep in a little, due to some room mates that showered forever it seemed, I wasn't able to get out of the hostel to the tram and to the bus until about 10am today.  Actually it was almost a mad dash for the bus... as the tram dropped me off across from the gare routiere (bus station) about 10:38am and I had to be on the the bus by 10:40am.  So I busted my hump across the street to line number 112, and damned if I wasn't the last person to make it on the overloaded bus.  Only 1 euro!  Not bad.

Being thrown side to side by the driver around hair pin turns and up steep inclines I felt like for a moment I had to hold on for dear life.  But as is almost always the case I successfully made it to the Eze stop.  Eze ("ez") is a middle ages village that had been successfully overrun with tourists, but the average kind AND the rich kind.  Part of the village has been converted into hotel you see, and not a cheap one by the looks of the vehicles out front.  I saw a new Lamborghini, Merceides and an old Rolls Royce (pictures tomorrow if I can) as I climbed the many steps to the village atop the hill.  After that I made my way through the old town, much of it in tact, but much of it overcome with shops now.  They have almost fully converted an absolutely beautiful medieval town into a mall for tourists really.  The stores unique, the tourists not.  I actually doubt the majority of what was sold there was too affordable, from paintings to sculpture to just about anything else you could imagine.  I did get some awesome photos of what I could though, and I promise  to post them just as soon as I can.

From Eze I moved on to Monaco, a country all itself, and made for the uber rich it seems.  The moment I approached the princes palace I knew so by the several Ferraris parked out front.  Each owner fighting for the most pictures with tourists I think.  Red, black, red, black, etc...  Not to mention the Mercedes and Audis I saw as well.  The one oddball I thought though was the dodge intrepid. hmmm.  After that I walked along the port to look over all the yachts floating around.  The only thing I could think was, why were they just sitting in port?  Shouldn't you use one of these things if you own it?  Being rich must be interesting and boring at the same time I think.

After looking at all the excess I stumbled around town trying to find the bus back to Nice, which I didn't think existed after about 45 minutes of searching.  But finding the tourist office quickly solved my problem, where I learned that bus 112 back to Nice doesn't exist like I was told.  I had to take bus 100 back... that was fun because I got to see the entire Mediterranean coast for only another euro.  Beautiful.

Lastly, I found myself on the beach once again, as promised.  This time doing more people watching than wave watching.  Families of all kinds were out and about today, I suppose because it is Saturday, but from couples exhibiting drama to couples showing love, to father and son sharing their first swim together today was enlightening in its own way for me.  Its  nice to see how people of another culture really live.

And now here I am preparing for the next day's journey to Lugano Switzerland.  Leaving at 10 and arriving at 4 with a brief stint in Milan...  Im just hoping Im not late because I only have 20 minutes to find my connection!  All will be fine Im sure.  Sorry for the abbreviated blog this evening, I wish I could have spent more time on it, but Im just a td tired, so I think its sleep time.

4Sep/090

Lullaby

Nice really is a beautiful town.  There isn't really any other way to put it.  Sure its large, sure there are a lot of people, but it has a style its own.

Upon first arriving here I think I still had a fear of public transportation.  Something that has been instilled in me for a long time.  I think largely because Ive heard all the horror stories there are regarding pickpockets.  I'm not saying they aren't a threat, don't get me wrong, but I do feel like Ive prepared the best for it.  I'm alert, put my important belongings in all the right places, etc etc...  I have to admit though that the right bag will make all the difference.

Anyway, having gotten over a lot of that I decided to use the  public transport a lot more today.  I took the tram several times... all the way to the beach, as well as to the train station and back to the hostel, sometimes twice. You can buy day passes if you like but it still didn't add up for the number of trips I took.  I found myself helping a couple of people as well... oddly enough one French lady.  lol.

I first traveled to the Messena stop, which is kind of the central square here and parts are pretty rich if you will.  Streets are lined with expensive looking French restaurants as well as stores for the more well off, none of which interested me.  I was off to the beach.  I think it took about 5-10 minutes to make it there from Messena, but what a sight it was.  The water was as blue if not blue'er' than many of the beaches Emily and I saw on our cruise last year.  It was several kilometers long and I walked about half of it I think.  The beaches here are not sandy, they are rocky, but it gave it more of a zest Ill mention later.  And yes for all you men out there, it was a topless beach.  Few chose to bathe in the sun this way though so don't think it was obnoxious.  People of all kinds were out and about... I suppose because its a bit of destination, but I also suppose because its a beach.

After walking and watching on the beach for close to an hour I would say, I ended up on one end, where there is a hill.  A hill they call Le Chateau here in Nice.  After taking an elevator to the top (I was done walking for a bit, but I could have climbed a LOT of stairs if I wanted to - 1 euro) I discovered that it isn't much more than that, but what it does give you is an awesome view of the coast.  Take a look see:

Nice Coast

Nice Coast

All those tiny little dots are people.  After taking a picture of a couple of Chinese gals per their request (they knew very little english), I moseyed over to the other side of the hill.  Another fantastic view of the port here in Nice.  What do you bet there's someone with money around here?

Nice Port

Nice Port

There are many very large yachts just out of view here, but the homes... wow.  And lastly, here is one with a hint of history.

Nice History

Nice History

After my little hilltop excursion I decided I had better head back to the hostel, as I needed sustenance and there was no way I going to pay tourist prices for it.  So I made it there via the tram and stopped quickly at the market for food.

After eating and a nap of about an hour I headed back out again, it was around 5 at this point, this time with only one goal, pictures of the sunset.  I debated long and hard on this one, but I couldn't think of where to wait for it.  Ahh...the beach.  I wanted to catch some sunset pictures so I had to wait it out somewhere right?

The moment bum hit rock I knew I wasn't going to move for a while.  The sound of this beach was unique to me.  The water spun and twirled as it always does, but there was a new element this time.  Almost as if each wave had an audience I could hear the roar of the rock tumble to and fro as the waves reached shore.  You see, as each wave approached the shore, you could hear them moving the rock beneath them, grinding against each other as they twirled and whirled around.  The sound it makes is awesome, like an audience erupting in cheer each time the wave raced to shore.  At this moment I realized I had not been more relaxed this trip... my shoulders shuffling of all stress and my heart calm with the realization I was in Nice.  It was like a lullaby.  After 2 hours I realized one other thing... that the only thing lacking was Emily.

Lullaby

Lullaby

I didn't want to leave, but the sunset was calling me, so I knew it was time.  About 7:30 I reluctantly climbed back to street level in order to grab a picture or two of the sun setting.  I have a feeling Ill be back tomorrow.

3Sep/090

Misconception

Alright, I suppose its time to 'man it up'.  Its time to let you know that I jumped to conclusions.  I unfairly characterized the French and how they live.

Chamonix in no way represents France.  Chamonix put a perspective in my head that contorted my view of things.  I made the assumption that because I was in Chamonix, and that because Chamonix was in France, that all French people are a 'certain way'.  This just isn't true.

My day started normal, I woke up about 730, jumped in the shower and prepared myself for the days traveling events.  I was to be picked up about 830 and returned to the Geneva airport.  Fully loaded with 6 adults and 2 children the ChamExpress service toted us all back to the airport, and outside of some heavy rain there no hitches.  Unless you consider the 2 adorable babies that had to ride with us... they were Irish I think based on the mother.

Upon arriving at the Geneva airport, more knowledgeable of the system and rearin' to go I purchased my tickets at the nearest kiosk.  I took a ride in the the main Geneva station and started my search for tickets to Nice.  You see I knew they existed based some internet research, I just needed to translate that to the billet saleswoman.  129 Swiss Francs later I had a ride to Nice (not super cheap, but then again I'm not traveling by train too many times like this).  I was scheduled for a 6 hour ride, getting into Nice about 8pm.

So I waited like a patient person for about 2.5 hours, ultimately making my way to the nearest 'McClean' for 2 francs and then through customs.  In case you're wondering I paid to wee...  it wasnt something that could wait for the train... most trains have a water closet (WC) on them.  Not too long after I boarded the high speed train destined for Nice.

I was joined by 2 German women and a man, which seemed to be very nice.  They said 'bonjour' to me as if I was French, I replied 'bonjour' and then explained that I was not French... English please!  Being a that they were German they were happy to oblige.  The two women explained they were off to a wedding, and the man stayed quiet most of the time.  As time went along the ladies broke out several dresses by the looks of which were purchased in Zurich (I saw the receipt).  They then started doing some stitching. lol  Trying to add a little bling to an already European style dress by the looks of it.  And for the next 3 hours they stitched away while I watched the scenery go by at Im guessing 150 mph.  About 4 times I would say they spilled the beads they worked with.  As  quickly as the 3 joined me, they hopped off, leaving a large mess behind for me and future train mates to clean up.  After that I had about 30 minutes of time to myself, so I grabbed a snooze.

The next couple that joined me were French to the 'T', the husband complaining about the mess and the wife kindly listening.  Both of them vehemently tried to explain their frustrations, of course falling on non-French ears.  Again I explained that I was not French speaking and immediately they smiled, understanding what I said.  This is basically where I decided that I unfairly stereotyped the French, because this couple was very kind.  In the end I was offered a tasty piece of candy by the woman.

About 2 hours from the end of the trip a rather hefty man decided to sit next to me.  If you know the French,  then you know that they don't really smell that well according to US standards.  He was younger, but it was apparent that he had been running and sweating, not a good combination.  His only savior was that he had some cologne on.  Some time later he decided to move across the aisle to an empty spot next to his friend (whew!), where he promptly whipped out I think 21 inch laptop to watch a movie.  His next gizmo wasn't the same though.  Because before I knew it he was rummaging around his bag only to pull out what looked like a 9mm handgun!  Oh it was real ok, but I kept to myself through the spectacle.  I met the older Frenchman's gaze only to laugh inwardly.  Neither of us said much.  Can  you believe it!?  I tell no lies.

About that time I realized we were about 1 hour out from Nice and I looked to my left.  The Mediterranean, at sunset.  Absolutely beautiful.  Hills flowing into the ocean, covered in beautiful chateaus, every one of them worthy of a photo.  All of France 'proper' is like this though, and again Chamonix is not a fair representation.  We stopped in Cannes, Lyon, Marseille, Antibes and finally Nice.  Every one of them breathtaking.  It may have been my disallusionment, it may have been me being tired, but I doubt it.  Definitely visit this place.

And now Im in Nice, sitting on a stairway outside the Saint Exupery hostel overlooking the night skyline, of all things typing on my netbook.  So far I would say this hostel is among the best of the few Ive stayed at.  Complete with english speaking folks from Australia and Britain, they even have a bar, free breakfast and a generally great atmosphere.

More to come tomorrow!

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2Sep/091

Le Cerro

Once making it back to the Chalet I quickly threw together a nice, big, sandwich.  Screw that 1 slice of meat crap.  I made this one thick.  Mmmm.

After that I grabbed my netbook, and started to crank it up so I could see lovely Emily on the other side of the world.  It's now that I throw in my shameless plug for Skype... simply amazing.  As long as you have internet on both sides, and you both have a computer with microphone and video camera (optional), you can talk all over the world to each other for free.  And it more than talk, because not only could I see Emily's smile, I could see Jack's as well.  His smile was less obvious though.  Netbooks are awesome, and I can easily see them becoming the essential travel tool.  Not only do  you have something like Skype, but you have internet in general.  Very powerful as you all know.

After I spoke to Emily, I fell into a nice deep sleep for about an hour or two.  My father woke me up with his call, but it was good to hear from him, even if the service was a bit shaky overseas.  Mom I'm going to call you tomorrow if I can, once I get to Nice.

My next mission was to take the hike to Le Cerro, a glacier up the hill behind us.  I felt like an ironman.  The grade of the trail was immense, on average twice that Im used to in Colorado.  They also dont believe in switchbacks here... unless you think a quarter mile stretch before it turns to the left or the right is fair.  Even despite that though I didnt break a sweat until the third one of those I think.  Im closer to 3000 feet though, and Im sure that plays a  big role.

The forests here are lucious... so green and wet... and they make me think I hiking through Ireland more so than the mountains.  Thick green grass lines the path and trees not only of the conifers join me on either side.

Le Cerro Trail

Le Cerro Trail

Inclines are hard to represent, but this shot is looking 'level' straight at the path.

I made it to the glacier overlook, and it is amazing to see.  It is also startling how much as melted recently, but lets not get into a discussion on global warming.  :)

I headed back down at this point, more concerned that my knees would punish me than anything, but they didn't!  That excited me a little, as my surgery must have done some good.  At the chalet, two new arrivals were there, scanning their maps to decide what to do next.  They are from Australia, the first of their kind on this trip that Ive met.  An older man named Bruce and his wife (forgot the name).  They just completed an 8 day trek around the Mont Blanc area.  Impressive considering their age, I would say close to 60.  They are just now planning another 2 weeks of driving around France together.

Next Im off to Nice.  Only an hour's drive back to the Geneva Airport and then a 6 hour train ride to the South of France.  I plan on visiting Monaco and possibly Cannes as well, and lets not forget the Mediterranean beach.  Wish me well!

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